October 1st 2020 – National Day in Cyprus, and a big one - 60 years since Cyprus gained independence.

While many on the island take advantage of a national holiday to rest or head to the beach, high up the Diarizos river valley in the Troodos mountain range a group of Cypriots gather early in the cool morning. They are armed with back packs and walking sticks and water bottles.

They are here to walk. A four day 65km hike across valleys and over mountain slopes, through vineyards and pine forests, past waterfalls and quiet or abandoned mountain villages. They are doing so for a cause.

Their destination - Troodos square just below the 2000 mtr peak of the eponymous mountain range that crowns the island

Their starting point – a 500 year old bridge straddling the Diarizos river built by the Venetians, part of a camel trail through cypress and pine trees, just above the modern day Arminou dam that today traps most of the river’s harvest.

Their cause – to help build a sound and secure school for 235 children at an orphanage in Nieri, Kenya. Sophia for Children, established in 2008 by Cypriot volunteers, aims to provide security and safety, board and lodging, healthcare, education and recreation to children in areas plagued by poverty and famine.

Gathering on the crest of the Kelefos Venetian bridge this bright morning, the walkers are here to raise funds for the Foundation and the children they support. They are walking for their dreams.

Equipment checked, photographs taken the walkers begin Day 1 of their walk, setting off along the Venetian bridges trail which crosses over to the neighbouring Xeropoatmos river valley and the next Venetian river crossing – Roudias bridge. As they leave the Kelefos bridge there is time to check emails and social media, and to send messages to loved ones and friends no doubt announcing the adventure’s inauguration.

The path to the Roudias bridge is through shaded woodland. First it rises 150 mtrs out of the Diarizos valley before falling 335 mtrs down to the Xeropotamos river floor and the Roudias bridge.

A nice morning’s stroll.

But the walkers are soon to be tested.

From the Roudias bridge the trail turns to rise sharply to the valley’s crest some 300 mtrs higher. A relentless 2.5 km climb that breaks out of the woods to expose the walkers to a powerful afternoon sun.

The line spreads out and, although the views across the Xeropotamos valley are spectacular, there is very little shade where weary climbers can seek relief from the 30c heat and admire the scenery.

Water resources are depleted quickly and to make matters worse the village at the crest of the rise is a half abandoned small settlement with very few residents and no taverna or shop to refill water bottles.

Just when this may seem too far for some, an angel appears near the crest of the mountain – a four wheeled white steed glistening in the sun’s reflection. Like the famous St Bernard rescue dogs found in another far off mountain range, the angel offers water and nourishment to parched and fatigued adventurers.

Over the next four days this mystical Cypriot St Bernard would make Mogli-like unannounced appearances on the route with its menu of refreshments which,  in a parody of the Biblical bread and fish parable, never seem to be exhausted.

Tonight the hot and weary crusaders find their lodgings in the village of Salamiou some 16.5 kms from their cool and shaded starting point.

Having climbed out of the Diarizos valley, Day 2 turns back and re-crosses the valley below the Kelefos bridge starting point.

The ground is open and the trail passes through mainly farmland and vineyards as it drops 300 mtrs to the valley floor where the Diarizos river bed is crossed. This time there is no need for a bridge as the river’s waters are trapped by a damn higher up the valley.

These slopes and hills were once the domain of the infamous Hassamboullia gang that terrorised the local valleys in the late 19th century. This was the Wild West where bloody vendettas, violent abductions and shoot-outs with police echoed through the mountain valleys in Cyprus’ own cavalleria rusticana.

Today these slopes are peaceful.

The trail out of the Diarizos valley meets the main road near the quiet village of Kedares.

Here the walkers’ guardian angel makes a welcome appearance, settled in the shade of the Calabrian pine trees that surround the village church of Ayios Antoniou.

As the grateful trekkers rest and replenish water from the guardian angel’s seemingly endless fountains, their attention is turned towards motorised chugging sounds that approach from the trail they have just walked.

 Over the rise there slowly appears a motorised dragon, huffing and puffing and shaking and roaring through its carburettor throat. The dragon shudders up the hill to the church carrying its master, Kyrios Euripides – a local farmer and former mukhtar of Kedares –  his wife and their two daughters on their way to church.

The scene arouses the passions of the urban generation from the big city who swarm the local villagers and their unlikely transport demanding a photo opportunity.

Once introductions are made and stories exchanged the local farmer donates a basket of grapes from his vineyards to help sustain the walkers. Refreshed and enthused, the hikers leave their guardian angel and hospitable villagers and continue their steady climb through the countryside.

The trail passes through quiet fields that bypass the abandoned villages of Gerovasa and Trozena and their ghosts. Rounding a slope, the days destination – the village of Arsos – comes into sight high above, acting like a lighthouse drawing the walkers towards it promise of rest and banqueting.

Hikers file into the village, hot and thirsty after their 15km trek which has seen them climb to an altitude of 800 mtrs on another baking hot day.

The village centre is straddled by two coffee shops/ restaurants that face each other across the main street. The quieter one is chosen to celebrate the end of the day’s hike with a traditional dance performed in traditional style by the fair ladies of Nicosia.

Later that night the walkers gather for a pre-dinner drink at the other kaffeneion across the main street.

Despite the presence of only the odd local villager and the many empty tables and chairs, the walking party is squeezed into a small corner, the owner explaining that the empty tables are already booked for dinner.

Drinks downed the party heads off in search of the pre-booked restaurant for a well-earned evening meal. Following enquiries they learn that their restaurant is in fact the kaffeneion they have just left. On their return the owner explains that he did not want to suggest that his reserved tables were for the walking group in order not to embarrass them in case they wanted to change their minds and go somewhere else for dinner. This was the Nicosians’ second experience that day of the contrast with, and the charm of, village life in the mountains of Cyprus.

Early next morning, refreshed and revived by their overnight stay, the walkers strike out towards the top of the Troodos range some 1000 mtrs above the village of Arsos. Day 3 will take them through prime wine country, ending in the mountain resort village of Pano Platres.

Overnight there has been a new addition to the team who has arrived from abroad, overcoming strict Covid 19 travel protocols, to show her support for Sophia for Children and its cause.

By mid-morning, after a steady climb through vineyards picked of this season’s fruit, the party reach the Gerolemo winery.

Here they find their guardian angel waiting and the walkers show their appreciation.

Taking advantage of the rest stop this season’s vintage is discussed with the winery’s vintners – the guardian angel is sufficiently impressed to add some samples to its stock of refreshments.

From here it is a relatively short and pleasant walk in the morning sun to the village of Omodos.

Unlike the other villages the walkers have passed through or by, Omodos is thriving. Located roughly half way up the Troodos range and not far from the city of Limassol, Omodos is a popular tourist destination. Its square and streets are lined with artisan shops, cafes and restaurants.

But it is most famous for the Timios Stavros monastery which takes up one side of the central square, and for its wineries which circle the village and whose produce is available in stores and shops that litter the streets.

Today there is a baptism service in the church of the monastery and the warm weather has brought tourists and locals in search of a good bottle of wine, artisan products and farm produce, all colourfully and professionally presented.

Its lunch time so the walkers take the opportunity to have a coffee or a cold lemonade in the cafes on the square and watch the hustle and bustle around them. For a moment they enjoy the holiday feeling.

With the sun now at its highest and with little cover provided by the vineyards, the steep climb to Pano Platres is exhausting.

The route passes through the village of Mandria and past the local church of Ayios Georgios. Here, cradled up against a low wall in search of precious shade, the relieved walkers are happy to see their guardian angel waiting with relief supplies of water, power gels and ionic salts. The wine from the Gerolemo vineyard is not on offer, apparently reserved for an alternative obligation. The walkers collect and rest here in whatever shade they can find before their final assault on Pano Platres still another 300 mtrs above them.

Some family members arrive  to give a morale boost to tired lungs and stiff legs.  

It does the trick…

 … by late afternoon a line of hikers slowly trickles into the resort of Pano Platres some 19kms from their start that morning. The undulating nature of the terrain means that although Pano Platres is around 450 mtrs above Arsos, the total climbing this day is nearly double that at  850 mtrs.

 The climb, the heat and the distance covered impels the walkers to ignore the siren calls of the resort’s bars and cafes in favour of a good shower and rest in their accommodation for the night.

Overnight and during the early morning the ranks of the intrepid walkers are swelled on this, the final day’s walk. Family members and friends are keen to show their support and share in the spirit of the cause by climbing the final 520 mtr ascent to the walk’s destination in Troodos Square.

Day 4 does not break the weather pattern of the previous 3 days. It is bright and hot but today the walkers will be protected by the shade from the black pine forests which cover the higher reaches of the mountain.

The swollen numbers of hikers gather early at the Psilon Dendro restaurant at the southern base of the Kalidonia Falls trail. There is a holiday mood, and why not. It is a beautiful day, the day’s hike to the very top of the island is a stunner, and their mission to raise funds for under privileged children is within reach.

The Kalidonia trail is only 3km in length but it is steep, climbing 400 mtrs as it tracks and criss-crosses the stream which has cut a path through the rocks. Bridges along the trail help the ramblers to navigate its waters.

The rising sun breaks through the higher canopy of trees but very few rays reach the forest floor.

The track passes through deep forest and is carved out of large rock formations. Even at this time of year the stream is a constant companion, a seemingly endless cascade of small waterfalls.

One of these cascades becomes a 12 metre falls, the highest elevation falls in Cyprus. This is a popular place to stop and rest and take photos.

At the top of the Kalidonia trail the guardian angel makes its final appearance checking that  the walkers, now including a number of hardy children, are fully recharged after their steep endurance morning climb. The end of the Kalidonia trail also offers another team photo opportunity.

From here the trail to the square circles the mountain top –  a welcome gentle climb along broad footpaths through pine forests, clear blue skies putting on a heart-warming display through the canopy.

From time to time magnificent vistas break out looking south bringing into view not only the salt lakes to the south but also the coastline beyond.

At times the path passes through rich fern undergrowth creating a beautifully coloured carpet highlighted by rays of sun breaking through the tall pines.

Approaching the mountain top the walkers catch a glimpse through the trees of the ‘listening posts’ that sit astride the peak of the Troodos range like giant golf balls nestled in deep undergrowth.

Four days and 65 kms from their starting point, the adventurers finally reach their destination - Troodos Square. As they cross the finishing line they are cheered by more friends and family and by the Sophia for Children organisation.

After climbing up and down the valleys that run through the 2000 mtr  Troodos mountains, exposed to the heat of a late summer’s unwavering sun, the team are exhausted. 

But the over-riding feeling is one of pride - pride in the knowledge that they have been walking to give dreams a chance; to help make the aspirations of disadvantaged children thousands of miles away a reality.

Through sponsorship and donations, the fundraising campaign “Walking for their Dreams” raised a total of 24,100EUR, funds that will go to building new classes and renovating existing ones at the Makarios Primary School, in Nyeri, Kenya. 

In total, the fundraiser “Running / Walking for their Dreams" through  the fundraising platform GivenGain (https://www.givengain.com/cc/running-for-their-dreams-building-for-their-future) has raised just over 60,000EU. All proceeds will go to building the Makarios Primary School in Kenya.  Runners and walkers alike have fundraised at their own events and contributed to collecting the funds necessary to complete the project.

To celebrate they retire to share a well-deserved drink and a lunch together. Marina Shacolas, President of the organisation, extends her thanks and that of the children of Makarios Primary school in Kenya.

And Despina, one of the leaders of the expedition, also receives her own personal message from the children of the school…

… keep walking for our dreams …